Emotional rollercoaster - From rookie to veteran at Finnmarksløpet 2022
Ida-Helene leaving the main street in Alta with Skádja and Nova in lead, Chloe and Lala in point, Idun and Rafael in team, and Lakris and Luna in wheel. Photo credits and thanks to Emi Dahlman @ingenkake
This blog post is a summary from Ida-Helens dream come true completing Finnmarksløpet 600 (FL-600), the longest and toughest dog-sled race in the world for 8 dogs. As many other mushers this year, she completed most of the race with only 6 dogs - since 2 of our dogs had to leave the team after 242 km. In total, 62 mushers started out from Alta March 12 - only 39 completed the race. Ida-Helene came in as number 38, having spent 4 days 7 hours 50 minutes on the trail, receiving the well earned rookie Finnmarksløpet price in slate stone. The time spent during the race was split into 63 h 10 minutes on the trail and 41 hours 4 minutes (39.4% of the total time) on check point resting the dogs. The results from the race can be found here.
Ahead of the race - since July - the team had trained 2,700 km, mostly on dry land. In our team is four of our Siberians and four Alaskans owned by our friend Gisle Mjaatvedt (Mjaatvedt Husky). The sisters, Chloe and Lala from Kennel Gråbeintunet, joined us end of August. Aweek prior to the race Ida-Helene decided to switch one of the young Alaskans, Zelda, and use her mother Idun instead. Idun is a 9 year old experienced sled dog that has completed Finnmarksløpet several times before. Four of the dogs (Nova, Lakris, Rafael and Luna) are young and had not previously completed such long races.
Ida-Helene qualified for Finnmarksløpet three weeks prior to the race by completing Bergebyløpet 240 km in Tana, Varanger, Finnmark organized by N70-trekkhundklubb.
Focus and strategy
Our strategy for the race was to focus on one leg at the time, going from one checkpoint to the next - never considering the next leg until AFTER resting the dogs and musher at checkpoint. Taking our time - giving the dogs extra sleep to restitute - not rushing things.
Our goal was to make this the best possible journey for both the rookie and our team of dogs - so that Ida-Helene and the dogs could build confidence and experience through the race.
Ida-Helene was one of the last teams in the race all the way. This had both advantages and disadvantages. The advantage was that checkpoints were less stressful and crowded providing good space and peace for the team to rest and recover. The disadvantage was being alone on the trail - the press and most of the action was long gone and most of the crew were ready to move on. Keeping the spirit and the motivation up was consequently a big challenge especially at the end of the race when most of the other teams had already reached Alta.
Nerves on edge in Alta prior to the race
Ida-Helene with Luna outside our hotel in Alta where we stayed the first night, before moving on to Solvang camping outside Alta where we had rented a cabin up until the race day.
The days ahead of the race was spent delivering depot bags with food for the dogs for check points, mandatory vet check of the dogs, mandatory musher meeting, registration, journal pick up, emergency feed weighing, list of chip numbers checked and vaccination passport validation etc. And then of course the sled had to be packed and all details checked about one million times to make sure that nothing was forgotten. Ida-Helene had thousands of worries about all possible things that could go wrong. For instance falling of the sled racing down the main street of Alta, angry moose on the trail, darkness, open lakes and waters, being alone on the sled (without reception), loosing the trail and getting lost, being hit by a snow mobile in the darkness, meeting predators on the trail, just about anything you can imagine.
Raceday - Departing from Alta
Ahead of start the mandatory equipment in the sled was checked, a race tracker was secured to the sled, and Ida-Helene´s GPS with maps were checked by the race crew. The start of the race is perhaps the most stressful part for the dogs with lots of people and noice including load music and speakers. So the mentally strongest dogs in our team, Skádja and Nova, started out in lead to help and support the other dogs in the team in this stressful situation.
Photo by Øystein Sørensen
All went well, the team looked amazing and Ida-Helene even smiled and gave high fives having the time of her life sledding through the crowd of people.
Glamping in Kautokeino
After seeing her off in Alta, the handler team, consisting of me and Astrid, drove from Alta to Kautokeino where we waited for Ida-Helene and the dogs to arrive.
Camping in pow pow snow at real low temperatures was .... well let´s just say that the tent pins did not quite make the trick, so we had to secure the tent in some tiny birch branches - and we did get a few hours of sleep ...
We were super lucky to have Astrid onboard as a handler together with me for the race. Astrid also spent a week with us in Tromsø last fall to get to know the dogs and a little bit of mushing before the race as she is not a musher herself. Astrid is a triathlonist - good with the dogs - loves driving - brought her tent and sleeping bag - she is great company and she is family. The perfect fit for the job description.
Meanwhile Ida-Helene was on the trail with the dogs, encountering lynx and crushing her start number in a fall on the sled down a steep hill from the first checkpoint.
Alta to Masi (78 km): Encounter with a pack of loose dogs and a lynx
Dept from Alta 12.03 13:51
Arr at Masi 12.03 21:15
Time on trail 7 h 24 min
Average speed 10.5 km/h
Stop at CP for 5 h 29 min
8 dogs in / 8 dogs out
Crossing a lake towards the mountain Beaskadas on the distance between Alta and Masi 16:30 Saturday afternoon
The photo below was taken on one of the big lakes on Beaskadas in a beautiful sunset. Some parts of the trails was dryland, so the sled was going over rocks and heather up and down at narrow trails. Quite scary with 8 crazy working dogs full of energy and keen to just run and run.
Past Suolovuopmi mountain lodge, crossing the road over the E45 (European route) and continuing into the wilderness, they got chased by five lapponian herders (reindeer herding dogs) that came running at the from the pitch black dark. Luckily she managed to outrun the chasing dog pack that disappeared into the dark behind her and the team.
After about 15 km on the trail - under amazing moonlight, stars and the dancing northern lights - she called me on the phone as she was getting anxious. As we spoke her eyes were followed the reflective stickers on the race poles ahead, and suddenly saw two yellow round eyes 30 meters ahead staring at her. She screamed out on the phone! I tried to comfort her and said it was probably just a reindeer grazing nearby the trail. She looked away, and looked back and it had moved 10 meters to the side in a blink of an eye, silently. As she got closer she saw big paw pads tracks in the snow, the size of her own hand.
After about 15 km on the trail - under amazing moonlight, stars and the dancing northern lights - she called me on the phone as she was getting anxious. As we spoke her eyes were followed the reflective stickers on the race poles ahead, and suddenly saw two yellow round eyes 30 meters ahead staring at her. She screamed out on the phone! I tried to comfort her and said it was probably just a reindeer grazing nearby the trail. She looked away, and looked back and it had moved 10 meters to the side in a blink of an eye, silently. As she got closer she saw big paw pads tracks in the snow, the size of her own hand.
The trail ahead had some deep holes after the big open class teams (14 dogs) and the other 8 dog teams had been braking all the way down the hills so it was really easy to loose the balance and flip the sled on the side. The sled was very heavy now because of much equipment. It’s not allowed to take things out of the sled and then back again, unless it’s booties for the dogs, feed from the food depot, jackets for dogs or hand warmers.
Ida-Helene arrived in Masi in the evening around 9. All dogs got cleared by the race vets, and were given a good meal (meat soup) and some hours rest while the Aurora was dancing above them. That is, Rafael did not want to sleep! He was keen to continue the race and was barking all night while the rest of the dogs were snoring on their dry straw. Ida-Helene herself ate a sandwich and some reindeer snack and slept on the floor of the school gym at the ceckpoint - on her big jacket in her woolen baselayer.
Some of the Siberian huskies in Andreas Ziltener´s team who travel along with Ida-Helene most of the race
Masi to Kautokeino (64 km) - Flipping the sled, running with ptarmigan and lots of fog
Dept from Masi 13.03 02:44
Arr at Kautokeino 13.03 08:47
Time on trail 6 h 3 min
Average speed 10.6 km/h
Stop at CP for 6 h 55 min
8 dogs in / 8 dogs out
The team left checkpoint Masi around 3 in the night. It was dark and really foggy the whole distance. The dogs were eager to run, and already at the first hill down to the river from checkpoint there was huge crevasse in the slope. Ida-Helene fell into it, the sled flipped on the side, she broke her number plate on the sled, hit her shoulder and got some new bruises.
"How I managed to survive is a mystery. But at the bottom I somehow got the sled back up and continued."
Early morning snacking at Biggevárri. This photo was taken at 5 AM just when the fog started to disappear, it felt so relieving as it felt like a thick and heavy blanket almost chocking us underneath it. It was indescribable cold in the fog and it felt warmer in an instant as it went away.
The trail climbed up to the mountains again and heading towards checkpoint Kautokeino. We / the handlers had arrived there the day before. The fog kept coming back and Ida-Helene had problems seeing her lead dogs and the reflective poles identifying the trail, so her GPS was really important to keep her direction. Not many photos were taking due to the intense cold.
"But I have some wonderful moments just saved on a secret place in my brain so I can find them and dream away if I need to."She also met a ptarmigan running next to the dog team. Running as fast as it could! The dogs just looked at it and kept trotting on, totally ignoring it.
Sweet Idun blending in with the local reindeer! Rafael uses every opportunity to roll in the snow. Last snacking before checkpoint Kautokeino.
Kautokeino to Jergul (100 km) - wanting to quit that race
Dept from Kautokeino 13.03 15:42
Arr at Jergul 14.03 01:35
Time on trail 9 h 53 min
Average speed 10.1 km/h
Stop at CP for 9 h 10 min
8 dogs in / 6 dogs out
Well aware of the heavy fog on the journey ahead, Ida-Helene had a big dip in spirit after leaving checkpoint Kautokeino. A super intense feeling of sadness out of nowhere only a few kilometers into the distance. She could not stop crying and just wanted to quit calling me on the phone. Not because of the dogs, but because she felt that they had been doing such good job all the way in technical slopes with huge holes in all the downhills.
Many of the teams had taken the wrong turn after Kautokeino. But Ida-Helene´s team used their nose and followed the right trail among millions of snowmobile trails around there. Skádja in lead was making sure to follow the right poles. The fog grew thicker than the day before and the river seemed endless. Ida-Helene called me several times, and we managed to lift her spirit continuing to the next checkpoint.
"How amazing to be in the middle of nowhere and someone meet you and say a few words, and it just change your mood and spirit instantly?!"
Leaving the checkpoint Ida-Helene got a very sweet message on Instagram from @dream.factory36 (Italy) that they would come down to the river to cheer her on. She wasn’t sure that she would make it, due to the heavy dog and low visibility. But out of the fog, they cheered her on and even gave her a beautiful drawing - which was exactly what she needed. It helped her so much, her mood lightened up instantly.
Continuing to Jergul, the dark creeped up on the team again. The fog had a tight grip on the landscape, but the dogs were motivated and trotted/paced at good speed. Driving down to the river on icy curved trails, the sled tipped again, hitting the ice pretty hard, and giving Ida-Helene some more bruises. She checked the dogs properly and they were all doing well. We have a bungee attached between the center lines to the dogs and the sled, to prevent tensions on the dogs which can be dangerous over time, while they are pulling and jumping or/ and if we fall.
The fog cleared up, and temperature had dropped down to minus 30 degrees Celsius on the river. Everything was frosty, and Ida-Helene had started to get really cold despite her heavy clothing - on toes and then fingers. Her cold avenger balaclava face mask was almost glued to her face, and as the dogs was trotting well she let go of the brake. They were so close but yet, so far away from the checkpoint. She was tired, cold and all she could think about was a hot meal and hot tea at the lodge ahead. The northern lights danced above them as they slided through the landscape - and the dogs could probably smell the other dogs ahead.
The fog cleared up, and temperature had dropped down to minus 30 degrees Celsius on the river. Everything was frosty, and Ida-Helene had started to get really cold despite her heavy clothing - on toes and then fingers. Her cold avenger balaclava face mask was almost glued to her face, and as the dogs was trotting well she let go of the brake. They were so close but yet, so far away from the checkpoint. She was tired, cold and all she could think about was a hot meal and hot tea at the lodge ahead. The northern lights danced above them as they slided through the landscape - and the dogs could probably smell the other dogs ahead.
Reaching Jergul, the dogs were given straw to rest on, the team was fixed with the snow anchors, given dry treats, Ida-Helene fetched water from the river, boiled the water and mixing it with with the kibbles and meat to serve the dogs. Taking of their dog booties, putting on the long distance jackets, gaving them a massages and then they could go to sleep.
Ida-Helene always walked the dogs on leash after having rested at the checkpoints, making sure to warm them up slowly, before getting them ready to continue the race. She walked them each about 15 minutes in walk and trot, and gave them massages before removing their jackets, and giving them food. Unfortunately, Chloe & Lakris was a bit stiff after the rest this morning at checkpoint Jergul. After a check on both the dogs and consulting the race vet, she decided to take them out of the race and leave them with us handlers. Chloe had a sore shoulder (not limping but sore) and Lakris had a sore wrist. We got a prescription for medicine from the vets, and after some rest and short walks both dogs had recovered the next day. The rest of the team were all cleared and continued from Jergul, on the long stage all the way to Levajok.
Ida-Helene arrived at Jergul in the middle of the night - incredibly happy to see and talk to people again - although there were not many of them at the checkpoint. Debrief, hot drink, food and then ordered to bed!
One "rested" musher after a few hours of sleep at Jergul before heading out on the long distance to Levajok (129 km). We woke up to sun and beautiful weather, only minus 15 degrees. And ate the most delicious breakfast: lovely, locally made fishcakes from pike and reindeer stew) served by the sweet and caring man at the checkpoint.
Jergul to Lavajok (131 km) - the heaviest leg of the race with wolf encounter
Dept from Jergul 14.03 10:45
Arr at Levajok 15.03 04:04
Time on trail 17 h 19 min
Average speed 7.6 km/h
Stop at CP for 7 h 56 min
8 dogs in / 6 dogs out
The dogs started to get tired so they took an hour nap on the trail after 60 km, with a full meal. Suddenly in the dark Andreas pointed to a lonely (dark in color) wolf trotting over the frozen lake about 200 m in front of the team. The Finnish border was not far away, so most likely it came from Finland and was just strolling through the area on the hunt for some leftover snacks from the dog teams that had passed in the hours before. There were big pieces of salmon and meet all over the place … a real Christmas Eve for predators. Seeing the wolf was a pretty amazing and unique experience! But Ida-Helene was very happy that she wasn’t alone, and had the company of another musher when this happened. The dogs were tired and wanted to sleep straight away. She dressed the dogs with long distance jackets to keep them warm and comfy while they rested, so that they use their energy on sleeping, and not keeping warm. They still had 71 km to go before checkpoint - and a few mountain stages to climb.
With only 6 dogs in the team she had to work a lot, pushing and pulling the sled, and at one moment she was so tired that she saw giraffes walking among tall houses on the mountain. Getting smacked in the face by a branch woke up again. And she managed tp stay awake after that. They also had a really weird experience when climbing the steep uphills as they heard a loud and big growl from the forest. Perhaps a sleepy bear?
With only 6 dogs in the team she had to work a lot, pushing and pulling the sled, and at one moment she was so tired that she saw giraffes walking among tall houses on the mountain. Getting smacked in the face by a branch woke up again. And she managed tp stay awake after that. They also had a really weird experience when climbing the steep uphills as they heard a loud and big growl from the forest. Perhaps a sleepy bear?
This leg took them almost seventeen and a half hour.
Leaving Jergul with 6 dogs in the team
In the forest on the way to Karasjok
On the Karasjok river running side by side
Slowly climbing towards Levajok
Levajok to Karasjok (83 km) on the river ice in sunny weather
Dept from Levajok 15.03 12:00
Arr at Karasjok 15.03 21:05
Time on trail 9 h 05 min
Average speed 9.1 km/h
Stop at CP for 9 h 3 min
6 dogs in / 6 dogs out
After 7h of rest at the checkpoint with proper sleep for both Ida-Helene and the dogs, and a good massages for the dogs, the team set out from Levajok to Karasjok on the river - a never ending runway. The dogs trotted nicely and got into a good pace.
Ida-Helene and the dogs leaving checkpoint Levajok
Temperatures increased to minus two degrees Celsius on the river, with no wind and the sun was warming, so around mid-day Ida-Helene decided to let the dogs sleep for an hour until the sun went down behind the mountains before we continuing towards Karasjok. The dogs really enjoyed the power nap. As the sun set, they continued down the river on the way to Karasjok. Never ending but beautiful river views - and clear weather. As the daylight disappeared the stars was like glitter on the sky, it was insanely cold on the river - and as you can see - the river is pretty wide.
They were cruising on the river between Norway and Finland - as the border is in the middle of the river. On their way to checkpoint Karasjok they had to leave the river and go through the city center which meant roads crossing and traffic. From being all alone in the middle of nowhere to literally passing cars is quite unique for a race. Our dogs did everything correct and didn’t mind the traffic.
In Karasjok we had a long 6h mandatory rest and mandatory vet check before the dogs went to sleep as well as before we went out on the next leg. The race vets were incredible, so professional and good with the dogs. The dogs were half asleep and very happy during checkups.
Ida-Helene got a mattress, her sleeping bag layed out, ber pillow AND a takeaway pizza and cola ready waiting for her at checkpoint - before she went to sleep.
"Perfect! My handler knows exactly what I want"
Karasjok to Jotka (83 km)
Dept from Karasjok 16.03 06:08
Arr at Jotka 16.03 15:04
Time on trail 8 h 56 min
Average speed 9.3 km/h
Stop at CP for 2 h 31 min
6 dogs in / 6 dogs out
The team left Karasjok early in the morning. The dogs were still sleepy.
Early morning at checkpoint Karasjok - getting the dogs ready for departure to Jotka and then Alta.
456 km completed in Karasjok
The team met several moose on the river as the morning sun slowly warmed up. Starting to climb the mountain plateau the trails got wider and longer and the view was amazing. They passed some tourist dog teams and got passed by others - probably Greenland dog mix - cause those polar dogs were HUGE. The leg towards Joatka Mountain Lodge was beautiful. Ida-Helene snacked the dogs more frequently on this leg to keep them motivated, but ptarmigans and foxes made sure the dogs were kept awake.
Jotka to Alta (49 km)
Dept from Jotka 16.03 17:35
Arr at Alta 16.03 22:05
Time on trail 4 h 30 min
Average speed 10.9 km/h
6 dogs in
The dogs were tired and went to sleep pretty fast. Ida-Helene gave them a light jacket - to keep them comfortable and warm so that they wouldn’t get too stiff when waking up again. She herself was sitting behind the sled (to get some privacy from the video surveilance ) - eating cheez doodles and drinking a semi frozen smoothie. She also got to know that the race banquet was about to start in a couple of hours after, so she was a bit sad she could not make it in time for the party.
On the final stage to Alta the team had the most amazing sunset in front of them. The mountain was absolutely breathtaking and the journey felt so unreal.
Her biggest fear approaching Alta was that she was now entering the ‘moose area’ heading down from the mountain, into the forest and down on the river before eventually popping up in the city center. Having someone to talk to - was very important - and she spent a lot of time on the phone with her friend Mailin Jerijervi, laughing a lot, and the jokes alone may have scared the moose off.
There were a lot of steep downhills so she had to put her phone on speaker in one of her pockets, cause she wasn’t able to hold it (both hands on the sled!). The dogs were really eager and cantering a lot, keeping a good speed on this final leg. They probably felt her excitement of soon reaching the finish line. She snacked them twice to keep the motivation on top, but they were speeding and she let them keep a higher average speed than during the other legs.
Just 5 minutes before the finish line she hung up on the phone call. Having a fellow friend or/ and a musher to talk to on the phone during hard times is very underrated, because it can make a huge impact on you, and it’s easier to find motivation to continue. The dogs wants to be with you adventuring and they are happy just to be in the moment, especially when it’s snack time.
Just before 11 in the evening she passed the finish line in Alta! Happy, satisfied and a bit tired.
Photos from the finish line by Marit Leinan Abrahamsen, FinnmarksløpetA big thanks to our collaborators
- Virbac Scandinavia - Veterinary HPM since Jan 2018
- Gisle Mjaatvedt - Mentor and owner of 4 dogs in our team
- Tore Albrigtsen, Mailin Jerijervi - All help and support
- Trond og Siv Hansen - for letting us buy Chloe og Lala autumn 2021
- AniCura Dyresykehuset Tromsø
- Anneli Lauknes - Optimal Hund i Tromsø
- Lola Marie Folke and Julian Johansen - All help and support
- Dog Vitality - Digestive support and omega3 and vitamin B oil
- Sara Duodji - Wool clothing
- Solberg Pettersen - Meat and snack for musher and dogs
- Diplom is - Plastic food trays
Press coverage
- "Dette var drømmeløpet mitt" - intervju www.hunden.no 19.03.22
- "Ida-Helene (25) har trent siden juli med ett mål for øyet", 16.02.22 Avisen Fremover, Narvik
- "Jeg tenker han er med meg når jeg trener. Det gjør det lettere å takle sorgen", 02.10.2021 Nordlys, Tromsøfolk
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